Backpacking Mamasita: From Samoa with Love

Boarding the plane bound to South Pacific islands always gives me butterflies. Born and raised in similar tropical country of Indonesia, somehow this feeling reminds me of going home. I chose Samoa this time as my Easter travel destination as I have been intrigued by its landscapes for a while, it was my fifth country in the pacific too! That part alone excited me! The islands in Samoa are close enough with each other therefore plenty of time to do exploration rather than doing the logistics like dealing with transportation to get to one island to another. Samoa consists of 2 main islands, Upolu and Savai'i, with Apia, its capital located in Upolu. There's also a tiny island of Manono that is sandwiched between two main islands.

Just under 4 hours flight from Auckland I arrived at Faleolo International Airport. Warm breeze and hot sun greeted me as I was leaving the aircraft. I approached one of the ground staff who was standing outside the terminal to ask him where can I wait for public bus to Apia town. He then tried to persuade me to take taxi instead with his hand holding on to my backpack. I walked away not long after and decided to go across the road. The reason of my travel is not only for doing it on budget but also to try public transport of the countries I visited. It looks too normal and easy if you just land and go straight to your taxi. I guess I'm looking for more excitement and connection with the country and the people. And somehow I get this if I take public bus and do what the local do. Anyway, back to where we left of, a couple of friendly local boys were kind enough to show me where I should wait for my bus. The bus in Samoa is so retro, like it was back in the days. It reminded me of buses in Fiji and South America actually. The interior of the bus all made of woods, from chairs to floor up to the ceiling. There was also Lava lava(Samoan sarong) that were prettily hung above the driver. The bus doesn't have sliding window though, instead, you pull the window up when it rains. When the bus is full, it's a common thing there for someone to offer their lap for you to sit on. It looks awkward in the beginning but I guess when you're in Rome....

The ride was slow yet pretty. Passing by many villages, beautiful architecture of churches on every corner and stunning beaches. I also saw many rock pools alongside of the road where locals cool themselves off in scorching 30C heat. Street vendors like BBQ stands, Taro, Banana and other fresh produce stalls are seen along the road, outside their houses.

An hour later, the bus finally reached bus terminal in Apia town and I was hoping to get another bus that could take me to my accommodation. I asked around and unfortunately not many people speak English, it was just after half 4 and weather looked as it will get worst, so I bargained a rate with a taxi driver in the end as my accommodation is still quite far from town. There's no taxi meter in Samoa, so try to bargain before agreeing.

My first accommodation is Vaiula Beach Fales. It's located in Tafatafa, south side of Upolu. It has very long driveway from the main road. I guess that's why it's so quiet there. Most of the fales(Samoan simple thatched hut) are located on beachfront so it was nice to hear the sound of waves when you're about to sleep and wake up. As it was shoulder season, there weren't many guests there. The beach was white sand, there's no big waves as reef fencing out the island it's safe for swimming and snorkeling. One of the staff gave me a plate of fruits of coconut, star fruit and paw paw. As I ate my fruit in my fales, I made conversation with M, a Welsh guy who been living in the country for few years. He lived in Hawaii for ten years prior Samoa. I can understand why he always chases the sun :) He's an artist, spear fisherman, guide, and landscaper around the accommodation. I think I got it all haha! A multitasking and functional man to say the least! He took me to waterfalls that afternoon, this waterfall is not on the map and we hitchhiked to get there and back. I was enjoying this warm welcome and straight into adventure set of mood. We walked through streams from just above our ankles to right up to our waist. At some stage, I had to hold my backpack above my head to keep it dry. As we walked, he picked up some wild Ylang ylang flowers and gave them to me. They smelt divine! Finally we reached the waterfall, we drank our beer that we brought with us. We got to know better about each other's lives and I asked him also about living in Samoa etc. It was interesting talk and I felt so relaxed. We then dipped ourselves under the waterfalls. He asked me if I wanted to go behind the waterfall as there's a small chamber where we can stay dry. So he held my hand and we swam to the side of waterfalls and as we climbed onto the rock, it was too slippery for me to go up. I kept on falling backward back to the water as I tried to make my way up. So we flagged it and swam back in the end. He then went up to the highest point of the falls, about 12 m in heights. He took a deep breath and next second later, I saw him flying down. It was too quick before it all over. I applauded his courage and he gave me a cheeky smile as he swam his way back.

We made our way back to Vaiula, a bit late for dinner as it was just over 7pm. I was so happy for my first day in Samoa. M is warm and adventurous, his knowledge about nature is impressive. It was such an effortless encounter. After dinner, he took me to this stunning beach lagoon. With full moon shinning brightly, thousands of stars above us and powder soft white sand beach soaked our feet, I felt like we were in our own fairy tale. We immersed ourselves in the warm of South Pacific ocean and for a moment I wanted to live in this Carpe Diem moment. I wanted the time to stand still. Did I just get sweep off by his charm? I didn't come to Samoa expecting for romance to happen, but who can deny faith and why should we deny what's meant to happen...