ANZAC* long weekend was less than two weeks
away and it was not like me having no getaway plan trip yet! I quickly jumped
online to check out some hiking spots around North Island and as I did that I
had flashback of how memorable hike I did back in 2011, it was Tongariro Alpine
Crossing. A 20km day hike over alpine terrain and active volcanoes. It was by
far one of the most amazing hikes I’ve ever seen in my life however it was also
the hardest day walks considering I’m not a gym person or very fit runner. I
love walking and hiking. I don’t go to the gym for workout even though at my
work we have a built-in gym that we got to use for free. I’m not being fussy,
some people like gym, some don't. You'll find me more going for a bush walk for
hours as I love being in the nature.
Anyway,
I was browsing hike options around Tongariro National Park and finally chose
the one I wanted to do. The track called Tongariro Northern Circuit, a 3 or 4
days loop hike around the National Park. This track is an extended version of
the Alpine Crossing that I did few years ago. As I tried to book my bed in all
three huts, I soon found out that they are all fully booked due to it was still
in the Great Walk season. Every year in New Zealand, this season commences from
October to end of April. There are 9 Great Walks scattered on both islands,
with 3 located in the North Island, 5 in South Island and 1 in Stewart
Island(third largest island in New Zealand). So I thought to myself, camping it
is! I was aware that the weather and temperature could be potentially
horrendous due to mountainous area, alpine that can be very exposed terrain as
well as altitude level, but I always wanted to try multi day hikes on my own.
The idea of being in the wilderness and just walking for certain hours every
day admiring the jaw-dropping landscape in front of me really fascinating and
with winter approaching soon, I felt that this upcoming long weekend was the
time for me to do it.
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| Tongariro Alpine Crossing - 2011. Much better day eh? |
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| Tongariro Alpine Crossing - 2011 |
A
week later I started to do some packing that consist of tent, sleeping bag,
mattress, cooking utensils, food supplies and couple of thermals and a down
jacket. In the end, I think I looked like I was carrying another person on my
back, my backpack looked bigger than me! I planned to do this hike for 4 days
instead of 3 as I didn't want to rush myself, also when there's a chance to be
in the wilderness, I wanted to take my time and enjoyed it while I can. When I
felt like stopping for photos or breaks, I'd do it without worrying too much
about time constraints. And because I was doing it on my own pace, I didn't
hold everybody up and ultimately can soak up the whole experience! On Thursday
afternoon, I drove down to Lake Taupo after work to break the journey and spent
a night at one of the backpackers there and made my way to the National Park
the next morning. Leaving Taupo that morning, the weather was looking pretty
overcast all the way until Whakapapa Village, starting point of the hike. I
went to Visitor CEntre to find out some terrain information and wheather
forecast also to register my car as it will be left parked nearby for a few
days.
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| Tongariro Alpine Crossing - 2011 |
Made
my way to the starting point, there were other keen hikers at the car parks,
though they did different tracks as I saw them walking away. As I started
hiking, I felt that the weight of my backpack was pretty tough on my shoulder
as this was the first time I had to carry that many stuff in one go. I kept
walking regardless, diverting my thoughts more to scenery and watching this
tiny bird flew between branches so close to me as it made a whistle sound. The
track was passing through bush area, beech forest and alpine terrain with
sounds of native birds kept me company. I was alone but I didn't feel lonely.
There was so much things happening around me and I was grateful to be there and
enjoying it all. The day turned out to be sunnny and in a distace I could
admire an unobstructed view of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe aka Mt Doom in LOTR
movie, they were looking all tall and handsome! Few hours later I arrived at
the first hut, Mangatepopo. This hut has 20 bunk beds in total however a group
had booked the whole hut so I set up my tent for the night. We had Hut Talk at
7pm where the Hut Ranger explained about temperature we'd be expecting that
night, what's the weather going to be like the next day and brief story about
the hut itself, oh also what we needed to do in the event of volcano eruption!
As night fell, we can feel that outside temperature was definitely starting to
drop. With 0 degrees Celcius creeping in, I wore all of my thermals and
wrapped myself inside my sleeping bag, may the force be with me, I told to
myself before wishing silently for a good night sleep. It was freezing and
holding on to my backpack tightly to get warmer was the only effort I could do.
I couldn't sleep well the whole night, maybe only and hour or two and got woken
up with my alarm. It was 6 o'clock and wished I could sleep in but no time for
daydreaming and wishful thinking. With rain overnight soaking my tent, I wasnt
to keen when folding it and its base was covered with dirt!
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| Northern Circuit - 2016 |
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| Northern Circuit - 2016 |
I
started walking at 7am as looking at the weather forecast and from what the
ranger told us last night, wind will gradually get stronger up to 65km/hr in
the early afternoon around Red Crater area. So he was suggesting for everyone
to leave as early as possible as it took around 6 hours to get to the next
hut. So right after sunrise I was ready to leave. Oturere, the second hut is
situated on the higher altitude than the first one. Also to get there, the
track must pass through a place called Devil's Staircase as well as Red Crater.
Three hours on the strenuous track, wind was blowing stronger and rain didn't stop either since leaving the first hut. My backpack felt heavier than
yesterday due to my wet tent adding more weight on my shoulder. I managed to
adjust it so that the weight can be distributed on the waist too. Weather
was getting nastier as I kept walking and climbing towards the crater. At this
point, I couldn't feel my hands anymore, it was freezing cold, wet and fog just
got thicker and lower resulting very poor visibility. Just before we got to the
ridge, wind was blowing much stronger and it got to a point where lots of
people had to turn back. Safety is paramount and we were all there in the first
place for the experience. I didn't need to proof anything. I gave my shot and I
am still proud with what I've achieved. Mother nature was just too powerful in
the end. I love going on adventures however when it gets to the point where
things get worst, I chose to trust my gut and retreat.
 Northern Circuit - 2016 |
|
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| Northern Circuit - 2016 |
Hiking
back to the base, I found myself repeating some words of encouragement 'hot
showers, hot soup, hot tea' as if it was a mantra. Feeling cold, wet and
shivering, I was back at the base and with tens of other people, we hurdled up,
some blowing their fingers to warm them up, some where doing some exercise also
to keep warm, though I saw few people were quite angry for not bearing the cold
anymore. Most of everyone who were there had no idea how to get back to their
accommodation since they had to retreat early. Some trying to contact the
shuttles, hotels transports etc and that could take a while for them to get
despatched. I started chatting with this girl who was on her own also and asked
what's her plan from here, apparently she was waiting for her other two friends
who were walking behind her on the track. She was actually running and as it
was just too cold for her to walk. I ended up hitching a ride with them, they
were kind enough to do a detour from where they were supposed to go just to
drop me off back at the village. With heater blasting in the car and a
chocolate bar to wake us up, I soon learned that they are all Doctors who work
in the same hospital. As we arrived at the village, I told them they're life
savers! God knows how long I could've still stood there in the cold had they
didn't give me that ride!
Soaking
up in hot pool an hour later, I could not believe how fast things had turned.
From getting caught in the horrendous weather to kindness from strangers I
received along the way. From people at the huts and hikers along the tracks who
were checking on me if I was ok, to Doctors who gave me a lift. It was these
kinds of moment that made me appreciate everthing that happened in my life. All
the situation taught me something. Yes, it was unfortunate that the hike had to
be cut short, however the experience still as powerful and profound as if it
was done in four days.
Oh
well, there's always next summer!
*ANZAC day is the commemoration to honor Australian
& New Zealand soldiers who fought at Gallipoli, Turkey during World War 1
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