Wednesday 2 March 2016

Kaikoura May Just Be My Idyllic Place






No matter how many time I revisited this place, I’m still amazed of how it captivated me, how it casted its spell on me. I never felt connected so much to a place than I have with Kaikoura. Every year I try to go back at least once or twice and choose to go on different seasons so I got to experience more of what this little gem has to offer.









  
My last trip there was just a week ago and stayed the entire weekend. I wanted to swim with wild Dusky Dolphins in the South Pacific Ocean that's just in Kaikoura’s backyard. This activity is quite popular and since it was summer season, it means booking early was crucial. I met a girl in my dorm and she told me that she was on waiting list for the day I went. Just shows how high demand this excursion can be.





As usual I flew first to Christchurch then picked up my rental car on Friday evening then drove around 2.5 hours to the east coast. It was daylight savings so cruising on the highway  during golden hour was picturesque as there were changes in colour on the mountain ranges and meadows as the sun staying put for the last hour before disappearing behind the mountains.


I chose to stay at Fish Tank Lodge this time, a backpacker that is smack bang in the middle of town centre. The town itself is pretty small, you can walk from one end to another in 15 minutes top. I stayed in Female Dorm and in my room, I found a piece of paper with my name on it placed on the lower bunk. I loved it when I can reserve a bed in the dorm. I normally do this if I stay longer than 1 night. Some backpackers have first come first serve policy but there are places that allow to reserve a preferred bed in advance. Just convenient when you don't have to go up and down to your bed all the time. I appreciate these little things! Fish Tank Lodge has one of the most comfortable beds I ever slept and it also has a very unique design in their social room and kitchen. They painted the walls with vibrant colours of marine wildlife from Orcas, Fur Seals, Turtles to Dolphins. Somehow it made me feel like I was another marine species living amongst them :)










I had only few hours sleep that night and woke up to the sound of my alarm at crazy hours in the morning as I needed to check in at Dolphin Encounter tour operator at 5.15am. After changing our clothes to wetsuits, we hopped on a bus that took us to South Bay where we then boarded our boat. There were 2 boats operating that morning with only 12 swimmers on each boat. If you don’t feel like swimming, you can choose Dolphin Watching only. There were few people who opted this and stayed behind on the boat. For me personally, I wouldn’t miss the opportunity to swim with this wonderful creatures. I was dreaming for this day to come. As we started cruising on a crisp morning, we were presented with this incredible sunrise. As the fiery sky got brighter, we spotted pods of Duskies jumping in and out of the water, showing off their acrobatics skill with amazing sunrise as the backdrop. What a perfect painting it was. Kaikoura also one of the few places in the world to see the first light. So that was just really something special. I love cherishing these kinds of moments, the ones that made your heart jumps and your eyes sparkle. Moments that you can look back and relive it every time you feel like it.


 


 


We started sliding into the ocean from the back of the boat one by one gently enough without making too much noises and once we were in, dolphins were passing left, right and under me as if they were flying. Some of them were so fast that if I blink, I could have missed it. From a distance I saw tens of them approaching my way and I just stayed there floating as I saw pods of calves and mothers swimming passed me racing side by side making squeaky yet adorable noises. It could get emotional having this kind of experience, as they were hundreds of them at times. I couldn't help shedding few tears for what I heard and witnessed in front of me. Especially when they came so close only inches away being playful and inquisitive and started circling me. I tried to mimic their move to make them stay put. Wow, that was so surreal! <3 <3 <3













 

We had 3 swimming sessions on different locations. There’s no detector or frills of gadget to find them. With their somersaults acrobatic jumps, they can be spotted from afar. Commentator on board told us that there are around 2000 Dusky Dolphins in this vast ocean of Kaikoura. They live freely, roaming wildly and eating rich nutrition from the deep canyon that are not far from the coast. They live in harmony sharing this ocean amongst biggest mammals on earth, Whales. From Sperm, to Humpback and Orcas or Killer Whales. Fur Seals are also scattered here mostly on the coast, you find them sitting, swimming and sunbathing on the rocky beach. There’s another interesting excursion that I’m yet to do which is swimming with these big brown eyes creatures. I am already daydreaming about jumping and teasing Fur Seals as they swam so close. That day will come, I can almost feel it! :)

 
















The rest of the day I went hiking to Seaward Valley, it started at Halfmoon Bay about 20 minute drive from town centre towards north alongside the beach and rugged cliffs. The hike started right on the coast and ascending up to the bush and alpine mountain ranges. The whole time I hiked there, I only met 2 other people. It was so serene. The following day I went for a drive to Seal colony at Point Kean on the south side of Kaikoura then walked the Coastal Walkway with never ending view of turquoise blue-ish ocean and many sunbathing & playful Seals along the way. It was a great walk to get a close encounter with the wildlife.








 


Kaikoura is also known for its abundant seafood, it’s the Mecca for it. The name itself says it all. Kai in Maori means “food” and Koura means “Crayfish”. Combined together you get 'Meal of Crayfish' So there you go. From big ass Lobsters(or Crayfish as the Kiwis call it), Paua(an edible abalone), mussels, variety of fish like Cod & Grouper to name a few. In season, you can also find Oyster, Scallops and Whitebait. Though I must say the price for Crayfish here is not really a wallet friendly despite how many they are in this region. Lots of locals normally go free diving and just catch it on their own. Isn’t that an idyllic place to live? I’m thinking next time I’m heading there, it’s actually cheaper if you go on fishing trips for few hours and just catch your own. Most of the fishing boats also clean and fillet your catch ready to be cooked in your kitchen. How good is that? Plus you got to experience catching dinner yourself! Fancy Paua fritters or Garlic Butter Crayfish for tea tonight?


I am filled with butterflies every time I found myself in Kaikoura and left feeling rich on the inside because I know it's a place I can always return to, to relive the moments and to create exciting new  memories.


“Discovering this idyllic place, we find ourselves filled with a yearning to linger here, where time stands still and beauty overwhelms.” - Anonymous













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