Backpacking Mamasita: August 2015

Since my last attempt to see Whales in Kaikoura has been unsuccessful(see previous blog), the operator from "Wings Over Whales" kindly gave free of charge for second attempt to all the passengers that were on the plane. I really wanted to see Whales, so when the next opportunity of long weekend emerged, I booked my flight and made my way back to this 'quiet yet thriving with wildlife' little town.

Flying over Southern Alps

This time I didn't stay the night in Christchurch as I wanted to maximize my time in Kaikoura. So after picking up my rental car, I drove straight there. I stayed at Dolphin Lodge backpackers for two nights. It was a small backpackers with lively atmosphere. I spent the evenings sitting by the fireplace and hung out with other visitors and two cute house cats, Red and Blue. In the morning, I had my breakfast outside on the balcony overlooking the snow-capped mountains. A friendly German girl then joined me for breakfast. We started to talk from A to Z, I love hearing stories from other travelers, their adventures and misadventures. I felt uplifted afterwards. One of many things that I love about Solo Travel is the constant connections with others, whether they are people, nature or wildlife. You are alone but never lonely. There's always strangers you can converse to either at hostels, a park bench or long train rides. It might have never happened had you not been there by yourself. There is always moments of sharing, even if you're on your own.

Red the cat at Dolphin Lodge

Not a bad view to wake up to at Dolphin Lodge

Second time around on the mission of this Whale Watching, we were back, up in the sky, circling above the same trench as we did last time, then finally spotted something on the surface that looked like a log. And then there was another log. As we got bit closer, the Pilot told us they were Sperm and Humpback Whales! I almost pinched myself! Sitting in the front of the plane next to the Pilot for the first time in my life and finally saw Whales beneath me was such a surreal feeling. It was a "once in a lifetime" moment really. Another long life dream was ticked off. We saw when the Whales breathe, showing a spray from its blow hole that can be seen from afar, then its lifted the tail flukes out of the water as he went down for a deep dive. I was beyond stoked! Big shout to "Wings Over Whales" flight operator for giving me this second time around opportunity! The sighting of Whales and some Dusky Dolphins was something that I won't forget for a very long time.

Finally a Whale in sight!

Before we flew up, up and away!

Kaikoura from above

I then drove to Ohau Falls once I managed to keep my calm back from too much excitement in the sky. Ohau Falls is one of to go places for Fur Seal colony. It's about 20 minutes drive from Kaikoura town centre. Beautiful but a bit windy drive with ocean view on your right side for as long as your eyes can see. As I arrived in Ohau Falls, there was short trek to get to the falls that was passing by a stream. It was lovely bush walk. Despite the cold temperature, I really enjoyed the trek, loved the smell of woods, seeing the shaft of light through the trees and all the sounds of the chirping birds around me. Then I started to hear the sound of waterfalls, I was almost there. And here they were, Baby Seals jumping in and out of the water, greeted me with their playful poses and swimming under the freezing waterfall. It was like watching live screening of "Animal Planet" I really could not contain my feelings, the big smile on my cheeks really says it all! There was a lot of Awww moments, cuteness overload. Their big beautiful brown eyes, confidently striking one pose after another. Just by watching them, I was in total bliss . I was aware that the cold started to creeping in but I tried to ignore that feeling and stood there in amazement, not wanting to leave.

Fur Seal Pups

From Kaikoura, I continued driving to Akaroa, a beautiful quaint French town. Since this place is a French Settlement, it was so obvious that all the French theme were all over the town, from shops, street names to historical colonial buildings. It is also known to be the only place in the world where you can swim with the smallest and rarest Dolphin called Hector Dolphins. My visit in Akaroa was short and sweet, I spent my day exploring this tiny town and around the waterfront on foot, taking some photos and eating fish and chips. Maybe next time I'll go back and stay the night.

First glimpse of Akaroa

Beautiful Akaroa

Akaroa, quaint French town

I made my way back to Christchurch and this time instead of staying in my usual hostel, I wanted to try sleeping in Jail. Yes you read that right! Jailhouse Accommodation was used to be a historic prison back in the days up to late 90s before it was converted to hostel and opened to public in 2006. It is voted to be the Top Hostel in Oceania by Hostelworld as well as being consistently recommended place to stay in Lonely Planet. I must admit that I felt a bit intimidated when I stood outside looking at the building, the idea of sleeping in a cell that night just sounded creepy. However my feeling was quickly lifted with all the thrills and the excitements once I entered the building. Friendly receptionist or should I say 'Prison Guard' eased my nerves as he explained all what I needed to know about my stay there. He took me to my cell for the night and I was officially an Inmate. I then went to explore the complex and from my point of view, I think the facilities were great. This place was immaculately clean, it has spacious Dorm room and comfortable bed complete with hot water bottle next to my bed. What more do you need? As I continued walking, I found one original cell that has all the drawings from inmate who was there. It was good to admire them just as you admire art in other galleries. Staying in the Jailhouse was definitely different and unique experience, I quite enjoyed being detained for the night actually! And best thing was, I got to keep the key and managed to unlock myself out the next morning! #prisonbreak lol

Jailhouse Accommodation, Christchurch

Inside the "Jail"

Ohau Falls

Street names in Akaroa

Akaroa

What are you drawing, kind Sir? -Akaroa-

It's not just the destination that matters. Stop and appreciate the view

Here's Kaikoura!

Seal pups at Ohau Falls

First light of the day at 30,000 feet

Visiting my favorite playground, the South Island of New Zealand during long weekend has been my regular activities every year. Flying over Southern Alps on the way to Christchurch is one of many reasons to keep going back for more. I often choose Christchurch as starting point because it's convenient and quite central, with deals from Jetstar and Air NZ as low as $45 one way, it's also an invitation that I just couldn't resist!

Lake Tekapo

Christchurch is just over an hour flight from Auckland, on one of my recent visits, I stayed 1 night here at a hostel and the next early morning, with my rental car, I made my way down south around 4 hours drive to Mt Cook National Park. I don't think there has been a dull moment when driving around South Island. The view was either better or even better. It was hard not to stop for some photos really. Then I entertained myself by singing along some of Sam Smith's tunes from the CD I brought with me from Auckland. I love his voice, it really made the long drive even more excited! On the way there, I made lunch stop by the side of Lake Tekapo. It was truly picturesque by day and quite captivating by night as it's voted as one of the darkest sky on earth, so stargazing around here is something that shouldn't be crossed off from your list if you ever venture yourself out this way.

Road to nowhere...

Watered and fed, I continued driving towards the National Park. As I approached Mt Cook Village, the weather was drastically changed from sunny and clear blue sky to strong winds and rain. Consequently, I had to cancel my walk at Hooker Valley Track that I had already planned before. it was such a bummer as I was looking forward to do this spectacular walk. Oh well, is it a blessing in disguise for a return visit? I'll take it as a yes! In the end, my short one night stay in Mt Cook was spent mostly indoors in my hostel reading and chatting with other travelers.

I lost count after 10 :)

The next day I drove around 500km north to a place called Kaikoura, it's situated on the east coast of South Island. One of my favorite spot actually. It has ticked the boxes for me, from abundant wildlife to the fresh seafood especially lobsters or here they call it, crayfish. Here in Kaikoura, I have made arrangements to do a Whale Watching by plane. Gambling with the weather and only had one night in this coastal town, I left it to the mercy of Mother Nature. The next morning I was woken up by the sound of waves outside my hostel, however the day didn't look quite promising. It was overcast and windy. But much to my surprise, the Whale Watching still proceed as planned. Sperm Whales, the residents of Kaikoura ocean live few miles in the trench that stretched between Kaikoura all the way to the much warmer water in Tonga in the South Pacific. As we flew circling the trench from 500 feet above the sea level on an 8-seater plane, we had all our eyes on the lookout of these magnificent creature, the gentle giants. After nearly an hour in the sky, there was still no sight of the Whales. The luck was clearly not on our side that time. Our contact told us that the Whale was in the deep water for over an hour so he should have been coming back up to the surface to breathe. But he didn't. Despite not seeing one single Whale, the scenery managed to take our breath away. The fifty shades of blue of the ocean beneath us, the coastal town from a distance, mountain ranges surrounding this quiet little town was just incredible. There was still a lot to marvel from this trip.

Mt Cook National Park. Can you spot the rainbow?

Weather changed drastically in Mt Cook National Park

After this excursion, I went for a drive to a place that Kaikoura is famous for, Seal Colony! It was only short 5-10 minutes drive from town centre. All the seals were living in the wild, mostly scattered around the beach. I played with fur seal pups, they are the cutest thing ever. The adult ones were there too but they were "busy" napping on the beach. So I thought I babysit their babies while they had their rest ha!

Seal Pups Colony in Kaikoura

Seal Pups trying to decide what game they're going to play =)

Mama Seal seems to be in total bliss =)

From Kaikoura, I made my way back to Christchurch in such terrible weather. Made it to the plane that took me back to Auckland just in time as I was the last passenger who boarded the plane. Phew! Sadly, I lost my travel pillow during the frantic run from car park to Gate 18 where I boarded the plane.

Mountain Ranges as seen from Whale Watching plane

As I munched a packet of M&Ms when the plane made its way to the runway, I can finally put my feet up and contemplate what I been doing throughout this long weekend and thinking to myself I don't think I ever did that many driving hours in 3 days and had to keep on going despite the bad weather! Even though this trip was already my fifth time to South Island, I am still speechless by its rugged and dramatic landscape, how it consistently swept me off my feet! ♥

"It's good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end" - Ursula Le Guin